Padmé’s wardrobe

His majesty, the Big One, the final cosplay, the biggest Amidala project, the goal of all Amidala’s cosplayers is this.

Often deemed to be the hardest one to make, this gown is the one many associate with the character and with the episode. It’s surely her most recognizable thing for those barely knowing the Star Wars prequels.

Concept and influences

This gown is inspired by ancient chinese fashion, and the color is chinese red, a very specific shade of red. It’s surrounded by the yellow fortuny handmaidens, and it’s one of the most expensive costumes, according to Vogue.

My opinion

I love it. Not only for the aesthetic, but for the challenges it offers, and because it’s a challenge. This costume will never age, and it’s a costume that leads you to the olympus of costume makers…if you nail it. Many make it, but mess with the proportions, so you end up with something that really looks wrong. It’s incredibly easy to mess this one up, even doing 90% of it right. In all episode I costumes proportions are the most crucial thing: a headdress too big and you’re a funko pop.

Only for the brave.

Advice

Naergilien’s blog is my favourite blog post about this build. I love it.

Just a few more tips: the fabric is also called faille, ottoman and ribbed silk, not just bengaline. Though you have to be sure the ribs are big enough.

My costume

Yes, I am making this. This will be the very last Padmé costume I will make, before retiring from Padmé making for myself. Not wearing, just making. This will be the last.

I’ve collected most of the materials already, including two extremely accurate cinnabar beads for the headdress, with the very same design!!! At this point I have all of my dream Padmé costumes in progress, or with most supplies in my hands. So I need to complete all the others before starting with this.

An other favourite of the public, though Padmé never wears it in the movies (it’s Keira Knightley, though Portman wears it in some official photoshoots).

Concept and influences

No idea. An ostrich? Here we call it “the easter egg”. But not meaning what it means in English, meaning italian easter eggs.

My opinion

Not very fond of it. I like it, it’s a big build, but it’s not something I’d be willing to put my effort into, especially counting it’s not a costume of Padmé’s.

Advice

it’s a bustle, not a crinoline. And wear a petticoat!

The handmaidens wear many different costumes, however this seems to be the most associated to the characters, probably because Padmé wears it as disguise.

Concept and influences

They look like flames, but they’re really intended to work as a background for the Queen’s costume they’re matched with. You can’t use certain handmaidens with random Padmé’s costumes, they are made to enhance specific ones, so they need to match.

The cowl is almost a draped hijab, rather than a balaclava, so maybe middle eastern fashion had a role to play in the incluences.

My opinion

Love and hate it. The costume is lovely, but is linked to a very unpleasant experience, so though I had one, I took it apart to made the victorian volcano dress from its velvet. But it’s a very nice costume, when done properly.

Advice

Mind the sleeves. They have a very hard to figure and make pattern. Also they might be hard on you for proportions, if you’re planning to join Rebel Legion, but just remember that each of them was different. Padmé’s sleeve length was very different from the others you can see in the Padawan’s guide, as well as the front tabard length.

And don’t just make it yellow and orange. The dress starts at the floor with a very pale yellow, and ends with a brown at the hood. So don’t start from yellow velvet, and don’t just dye it in orange.

Use silk-viscose velvet. This costume needs that soft drape and movement, and that’s not something you can get out of cotton or polyester. It’s an expensive costume, if well made, and a huge challenge to sew and dye.

My Costume

I’ve made 10 of these and dyed 12. For a May the Fourth long ago. All in one month.

It was a challenge. And it was also something that made me want to take a distance from Rebel Legion, after the way we got treated. These costumes are the reason why I hardly get anything new approved, and why I almost never attended events. And if I do I prefer 501st.

Ugh.

Concept and influences

There’s surely somethign egyptian going on with the headdress. The rest might be from 1890s sleeves and teagowns, but the shape is very loose.

My opinion

If you can choose which of Padmé’s costumes to make…you make…this? Ew.

Not flattering to the figure. So dark all its details are blurry and impossible to appreciate. And those cocker-ears hanging down. You really love…this?!

Advice

Use a lot of fabric. Support the softer ones with interlining. Mind proportions. Choose colors carefully.

My Costume

NOT PLANNING THIS ONE. EVER.

This is something I consider ideal for a beginner! This is a quite easy to make costume and inexpensive. Though everyone wants to go to harder stuff to make right away. No, this is your ideal thing if you cosplay Padmé for the first time!

Concept and influences

I guess it wants to be paesant-ish? Wants to blend in with what Ani and his mother wear.

My opinion

Ok, it’s not the most striking design and the fanciest fabric. But it’s still nice, adorable, flattering to every figure and age, and inexpensive!

Advice

Use raw fabrics, uneven ones, mélanges. Silk noil for the tunic, a grey knit for the vest, something like linen for the pantaloons. Or cotton gauze, if you don’t plan on going to the expensive side of silk noil.

My costume

Though it’s lovely, I will keep my focus on the ore challenging stuff.

This is an other of the big builds. The pleating, the antique lace, the textures…it might be one of the most time-consuming and pricey to make, if made properly.

Concept and influences

Mongolian queens had those headdresses, though they were flat. The big shoulders of the overcoat are of mongolian influence as well, though once again we see these things blended with a art-nouveau-ish style.

My opinion

Weird. Extravagant. Bold.

Not sure I like it though. I love the concept, and I love it as a costume, but it’s not something I’d make for myself, as the aesthetic isn’t really worth all the trouble, if done for cosplay.

I like much better the pleated dress alone, even though we can see it in the behind the scenes only.

Advice

Not much. Again, proportions and textures. And that’s plissé soleil on iridescent silk taffeta, you need to have it pleated by a pleating company.

My costume

I’m not enough a fan of it to invest all that time and money.

That’s the cover piece of Dressing a Galaxy. The limited edition of the book has a case made from the fabric of this obi belt.

Concept and influences

Do I have to say it? It’s a kimono.

My opinion

I like it. I really love this design, though I am a fan of brighter colors. The thing I don’t like is the wrapped beaded threads on the sides of the headdress, they look like something that wasn’t planned from the beginning, like they needed to get them out of her face at the last minute. They’re not even aligned with the design of the side eggs, and that’s a pity.

I would have loved to see a more cohesive headdress, with a more organic look for the hair parts, and a low collar at the back. Like this the kimono doesn’t look very feminine!

Advice

Don’t skip the textures. The bubbly gauzy material, the burgundy shot blue stripes at the bottom, that’s what gives this costume depth. That’s where my eyes go to see if you’ve done your homework to have something accurate or just a cosplay.

And go big with the beads.

My costume

I still have better fishes to fry.

Time ago, I chose this because it looked quite simple if compared to the other big builds. And it is. But the materials aren’t easy to handle. It’s also one of the costumes that never appear in exhibits, and the scenes are very dark, so it’s not easy to have a clear idea of the fabrics and the textures.

Concept and influences

The hair is surely japanese, and geisha-like. The name of the traditional hairstlyle is “shimada”, though here it’s altered to create a very clean half moon shape,

The gown is more on the art déco side, with a high collar in front, goind low at the back. It’s more like a tunic than a kimono, as it’s sometimes described.

The original fabric was velvet panné rouleau. It was one of the weirdest ones ever used. It’s not faux fur. You need some kind of velvet with a 2cm pile. Faux fur isn’t thick enough, and the pile is not cut, it ends to a point, so it looks different.

For mine I used minky fabric. VERY heavily reinforced The one you use for blankets. And t’s adorable to wear.

My opinion

It’s an elegant costume. Refined, yet it still allows you to make an entrance. And it’s warm! When you have all those episode II things that need summer, this costume can get you through the coldest winter.

It’s not one of the most known ones, but it also means there are very little chances of finding someone with the same.

Advice

The embroidery takes a long time, and yes, it’s the only detail you get in this, so you better do all that fifteen appliqués right. And that needs knowing about tambour embroidering and goldwork.

Again, proportions and structure. Those sleeves have many, many layers to keep that shape.

The hair isn’t as big as you might think.

My costume

it has its own post!

I won’t write of the other battle gown, as that’s again Keira Knightley.

Concept and influences

The hair looks like it’s inspired by other traditional japanese hairstyles. The uniform itself is quite plain.

My opinion

Of all the great things she has, of all the ones that don’t take as much time as the bigger ones…you choose this? If it’s going to be a team, ok, will look interesting. But otherwise, if you’re on your own there are easier things if you could make to stay comfortable. This is not a costume that gets recognised often, though handling the velvet isn’t the easiest thing. So is it worth the timeand effort and money? Not so sure.

Advice

This could be the only time they didn’t use silk velvet, in this whole trilogy.

My costume

Not planned.

Worn in the finale.

Concept and influences

It’s made to resemble a flower that blooms every 88 years in Padmé’s hometown.

My opinion

The cape is out of this world. I love it. I want it.

The gown underneath… not so much. The painting instead of embroidery makes it look cheap-ish, and what’s going on with the head and collar isn’t as strong as the rest of her designs.

I would have kept the high collar of the concept art, and maybe overlayed the white silk with some pleated iridescent chiffon, and made the tabard out of something that would have given more texture. 3d embroidery, felting, stumpwork, cutwork, devoré, anything to get a bit more texture. I get they wanted a contrast with the cape, but that’s just too plain for her. It looks like a cosplay of a great costume, with the cape of the great costume.

The neckline isn’t great either.

It would have needed something better with hair and headdress, something more festive and grand to match the rest, and maybe to go with the flower concept. That thing she wears on her forehead looks like something that wasn’t supposed to be worn like that, maybe a bracelet or a necklace. And while other things (like the belt used as collar in the corset gown) blend in with the design, this remains a 1990s bracelet worn on her head and makes no sense with the rest.

Advice

Those petals are hand painted and are made from textured silk. Cutting them from plain organza or synthetic stuff will get you only 30% of the beauty of this gown.

My costume

Not planned.

Concept and influences

It’s connected to the others Naboo military uniforms.

My opinion

Not one of my favourites, though manybe one of the best if you want comfort. I am not a fan of the color palette, and it has that feeling of lower budget sci-fi stuff’s costumes.

Advice

Sandwich a cord between the pleather and an other fabric to obtain the 3d effect, be careful on the corners.

My costume

I’ve made this for a little girl and loved it. I’m not planning one for myself, but it’s a great costume to start from, if you’re not uncomfortable in leggigns.

Cut scene whwn Padmé tells the senate about the attempted murder.

Concept and influences

This is heavily influenced by late 19th century teagowns. It has the iridescent beads collar, the moiré, the leg o’mutton sleeves, the dramatic collar.

I guess 18th century has a part to play too, with the stiffened stomacher, though of course the removable center panel was something common for the already mentioned teagowns, despite being something much softer.

My opinion

You know I love 1890s. So it’s one I really love.

I would have loved to see a double box pleat at the back, and not the draping fabric it has. Maybe some decoration at the center of the pleat, rather than that sort of crinkle sash.

Advice

Base everything on a corset. Create a stiff base for the collar and bone it!

Also, as seen on exhibits, it’s not blue, it’s purple!

My costume

I have the supplies and the undergarments, I need to start drafting patterns and cutting!

Concept and influences

I think this is influenced by renaissance elements, but it’s really so simple it could be influenced by almost everything.

My opinion

She has such beautiful lungewear and nightwear, that it looks almost impossible that she chose to wear…this.

Advice

If you have the time to make something from her wardrobe, make something else?

My costume

Not planned.

Concept and influences

This is inspired by elizabethan fashion, but also spanish fashion of the late 16th century.

The headdress is inspired by traditional longated african hairstyles.

My opinion

I love it. I love almost everything in its aesthetic.

What I don’t get is the design and placing of the embroideries. There could have been something more effective and less repetitive, while it’s just the same design over and over.

Advice

Don’t get the printed fabric. Nor the printed velvet. You need the devoré silk-rayon velvet, or it’s not worth the time.

My costume

I have managed to gather a group of amazing ladies who joined me to get the minimum order to get the fabric…made just for us, and on my design!

So I have defeated the “impossible to make” one. Now I just need all the rest. It’s going to take long.

Concept and influences

The hairstyle is inspired by a native american tribe. I’ve found Hopi as name, but others as well.

The rest, especially the dress is probably inspired by…grandmas?

My opinion

The dress underneath isn’t that bad. It’s light years away from her style in previous episodes. But it’s one of the best she has.

The cheetah pattern devoré velvet cape? Not bad. Doesn’t steal my heart away. We’ve seen much better capes in this trilogy, from the handmaidens to her own wardrobe, they all beat this one.

Advice

The wool needs to have texture. Otherwise you end up with an absolute lak of depth in the costume. And it needs to be in the right not-black-not-blue-not-grey area.

My costume

I’ve thought about making the dress underneath the cape. But nope.

Concept and influences

Probably art nouveau for the brooch, and probably all of it could look like taken from one of Mucha’s works. Maybe the 1930s as well for the satin and the design?

My opinion

Not a fan. And someone still has to explain how does one sleep with the pearls around the shoulders. It must be so uncomfortable. And the silhouette is not flattering. At least in private she could have had something to underline the belly, after all she’s happy of having babies this point of the movie, why does it look like she’s still hiding?

Advice

All the lines you see going down the satin are embroidered. They open like a fan in the pattern. You need to sew a thin stripe of pinkish fabric between the panels, and then with a lighter thread embroider the design. And no, there’s that pink fabric, it’s not see-through.

Also, it’s not lavender, it’s described as steel blue.

My costume

I have made one for a friend. I won’t make one for myself.

Concept and influences

To me, this tastes like late victorian embellishment and late victorian capes.

My opinion

This isn’t bad. The hair is terrible, but the dress itself could have been interesting. yet all the layers that are usually underlines in different textures, all the details are swallowed by the dark velvet and by the fact that everything is in the same color. It needed something…something more. Maybe an other element in dark purple, just more on the blue side. Or some dusty pink? The front looks flat despire all the embroidery. There are layers, extures, there’s even a second pair of sleeves, and yet it looks like one big burgundy bell with some embroidery.

Advice

Silk velvet. I would make an undergarment out of quilted fabric to grant the right smooth shape over the hoops.

My costume

Not planned.

Concept and influences

Despite the elvish look, to me it has the traditional korean costume (the hanbok) silhouette. The color, the sleeves and the hood make it look much more from a fantasy movie. Take the hoops and the belt away and you’re ready for Rivendell.

My opinion

My second favourite of the movie. Thoguh the belt begs to be worn lower (maybe a sort of bolero cut would have given a similar line and wouldn’t have underlined the pregnancy, which this costume does).

Advice

Don’t skip the silk velvet. And use a lot. It’s a simple dress. I mean…it’s not. Of course it’s not. But it looks simle when done right. So if you compromise on the quality of the fabric or on the amount it easily looks cheap.

Try to get some printed fabric, if you can’t get the patterned silk for the sleeve lining and belt, those are needed for the same reason stated above.

And don’t embroidery the designs along the front. If you don’t want to try devoré, paint them. The contrast between colors and the lightness will give you a very nice result.

My costume

This has been a “maybe” for a long time. Yet the amount of fabric and the price of the proper one needed to make a replica and not just a copy are still a barrier. Is this look worth the cost? Maybe not. To me at least. I can spend the same money and time to have some of her gowns I like better.

Concept and influences

I think this looks very 1950s-70s.

My opinion

Same problems of the other nightgown. But the shells are lovely!

Advice

Due to the huge amount of embroidery this one has, it might be worth it to find someone with a large embroidery machine and have it done. Might cost less than the time you’d spend on hand emrbodier it for full accuracy.

My costume

Nope.

Concept and influences

Once again, late victorian. Late victorian Medici collar, late victorian shoulders, the effect of a late victorian capelet with the front tabards. 1905 teardrop sleeves, maybe?

My opinion

From the elbows up, I love it. From the elbows down…not a fan. The pattern of the devoré velvet makes it look cheap instead of adding something to it, and the diagonal it appears through looks weird. It also looks like its’ too tight on the hoop, just as tight as needed, and this rarely looks good.

Advice

Again, quality of the materials. And flatline everything in a second fabric that gives you the right structure!

My costume

I am planning to make one for a customer. I’ll let you know…

Cut scene.

Concept and influences

Ok, you know Predators, right? You can’t deny there’s something of it in the headdress and hairstyle.

Maybe 1910s fashion for the pointy things with the tassels?

My opinion

I quite like the collar and the pleated skirt. It’s a nice detail that goes back to the first episode. This gown isn’t my favourite as design, but it surely has the textures and contrast we’re used to.

Advice

Prey. The base fabric for the coat is like nothing I’ve seen. And it’s embellished with gimp.

You can have the taffeta for the skirt pleated, and that pattern is called plissé soleil.

My costume

Again, too much effort for such result.

Concept and influences

Fortuny and 1910s, like for the sister dressing gown we saw for ep. II, the smocked velvet one.

My opinion

Nice, and less time-consuming than the one from ep. II. And that headdress is just lovely!

Advice

This really looks like the velvet panné rouleau they used for the dress I tried to replicate from ep. I, the dark one with the geisha-ish hair. It’s hard to find. And faux fur won’t do. Try to find minky faux fur, the stuff they use for baby blankets. It’s quite similar and it has the right hand.

My costume

Not planned

Concept and influences

Peter Pan? This is surely influenced by other stuff she has (the opera length mittens are something they really liked for her) and other uniforms from Naboo.

My opinion

This looks nice. And it’s also not very expensive to make. The boots are easy to find, the faux suede as well, the cut isn’t too hard, neither the hairstyle.

It’s among the less expensive to make and to have made, and one of the most recognizables.

Advice

This dress is all about proportions and fitting. You want it well fitted around your upper torso, and the length of the skirt can doom it. Make a mockup!

My costume

I made a couple for customers. Unfortunately they both had their child some time later, and didn’t share any pictures yet.

Concept and influences

When standing, she looks like an angel, almost. But the dress is never worn standing, and it’s barely visible in the scene. So I’d say it’s just a basic design to fill a need.

My opinion

They did it well, it’s nice, with a nice amount of fabric, though of course you’d have to look vary much like Natalie Portman to be recognized wearing this, if it’s something you care for.

After all…they needed to make a costume for this scene. But I hardly see someone wanting to replicate this specific one.

Advice

Use more fabric than you think.

My costume

Big nope.

Concept and influences

This was designed to make her look like she was drowning in the lake where she’s been happiest. A bit like Ophelia.

I think the main inspiration for the inner gown was Fortuny’s work, again. While I like to think of the cape as inspired by Klimt’s use of patterns.

My opinion

How could someone not love this? It’s my favourite of all episode III. She finally looks sort of pregnant, she finally has some color. Despite the somewhat less inting costumes of this episode, this one is a proper ending to her whole costuming extravaganza.

Advice

Paint, dye, play. Use silks, as they’re the only ones moving like water. Unless you plan to lie down the whole time.

My costume

See the making of my first version here. I have now made a new cape, as the first one lacked some of the textures at the front, needed a slightly different color. And it’s sort of weird to see this cape barely touching the floor. She has trains and gowns flowing on the floor every time she has a formal ocasion, and sometimes even in informal ones. So I think she would have had a train, if she walked in this dress…which is not what the dress was designed for, yet when you wear it to an event you have to stand.